At last that spell of late summer heat has broken. At last we can generate something approximating an appetite. And -- all praise to the gods of zymurgy -- at last the first of the fresh-season sake is starting to arrive on the shelves and menus of our favorite ryoriya (restaurants) and izakaya.

What further excuse is needed for a libation? And where more appropriate to mark the occasion than at Tama? It would be hard to find a better example of the way Tokyo dines in casual, contemporary style.

Tucked away on a small side street off Kotto-dori in Aoyama, Tama's sleek facade is distinguished from those of the neighboring designer boutiques and hair salons only by the menu at the door. A miniature rock garden is shoehorned between the window and the street. The interior, too, is a study in minimalism -- all sharp, rectilinear angles and spare, monochrome decor.