Oysters are definitely in season these days -- and not just because the summer is over and there's an "R" in the letters of the month. Overlooked and undervalued for too long here (or perhaps just overshadowed by all the other superb seafood that's available), these humble bivalves are only now being afforded the respectful half-shell treatment they deserve.

Maimon is the latest in a rash of oyster bars that have opened around town in recent months. It has the contemporary look, with sophisticated lighting and a hip soundtrack. But unlike the upmarket gourmet lounges of Aoyama and Roppongi, Maimon gives the concept a contemporary Japanese twist, matching its mollusks not with caviar and champagne but with yakitori and sake.

The menu lists scores of different sources for their oysters, although only a dozen are featured at any one time. At present they have seven from Japanese waters (mostly Tohoku and Hokkaido) and another half-dozen from abroad (France, South Australia, Tasmania and Washington state). All are available by the individual piece, from 380 yen to 500 yen, or as mixed platters from 2,200 yen per half-dozen.