In Spain tapas are much more than just food, they're a way of life. There's even a verb -- to "tapa," as it were -- to describe the act of progressing from one tapas bar to another until the wee hours, balancing your intake of alcohol with a succession of light snacks -- always standing up, of course.
For obvious reasons, you cannot duplicate that experience in Tokyo. But recently, we did the rounds of three places where discerning drinkers can enjoy the pleasures of "tapassing."
We started in Shinbashi, at Sherry Bar de Doce, a recent arrival that has raised the tone of this traditional drinking zone. Apart from a barrel by the entrance, there is little attempt to conjure up the ambience of Andalucia. The interior looks more like a New York cocktail bar, and the music is saccharine R&B. But whoever compiled the sherry list certainly knew what they were doing.