The central Seoul district of Daehangno is renowned for its small theaters in much the same way as Shimokitazawa is in Tokyo. But whereas the latter boasts teens of venues, Daehangno has upward of 140 — so really there's no comparison.
That remarkable concentration traces back to 1975, when Seoul University relocated, leaving behind a thriving student-based culture and a large space in which a green and pleasant expanse named Maronnier Park was created. Then in 1981, after the Arko Arts Theatre was built looking onto the park, young people began opening the galleries, small theaters, cafes and restaurants for which Daehangno is now famous.
However, on a recent visit to research the roots of "The Goddess is Watching" — a musical from Daehangno that's opening this week in Tokyo with Japanese subtitles — I was surprised, after quite a long absence, to see that musicals had taken over where straight plays formerly ruled supreme. And it wasn't just any old Western musicals beaming out from flashy billboards, but home-grown, original works.