Masaru Tanaka's yatai has been open for business at the same roadside spot in central Tokyo almost every evening for the past 40 years or more.

Though it's dimly lit and cramped, and a scent resembling old socks wafts in from his vat of steaming oden, Tanaka's outdoor eatery in Gotanda is a firm favorite with many locals. Of course they come to eat and have a few drinks, but perhaps more for the lively banter.

"This is the best oden you'll find in Tokyo," declares 31-year-old Mitsuru Hatakeyama, a realtor who's one of Tanaka's daily customers.