Oct 25, 2000

Bubbling with energy

If you can accept its gimmickry and brazen commercialism, the glitzy, neon-lit hot spring resort of Beppu, a melange of pachinko parlors, love hotels, sleazy bars, night clubs and hot baths visited by over 12 million tourists a year, constitutes an amazing thermal and ...

Oct 24, 2000

Portrait of Laos, Asia's 'forgotten country'

LAOS: Culture and Society, edited by Grant Evans. Chiang Mai, Thailand: Silkworm Books, 2000, 313 pp., $24.95 The colorful volumes of anthropology produced in the past by gifted amateurs, lady travelers of independent means, colonial officers and the like, have been replaced by the ...

Oct 11, 2000

In the quiet domain of the stone Buddhas

As you turn into the quiet country road leading to Usuki’s Buddhist rock carvings, a stone torii gate, riveted into the earth, deeply corroded by wind and rain, comes into momentary view. Standing in a field of rippling green paddy, it is an unintentional ...

Sep 13, 2000

Of Zen, scriptures and fireflies

If the Yamaguchi post office were looking for an image to place on a commemorative stamp of their prefectural capital, they would probably choose the city’s magisterial five-story pagoda, built on the grounds of the Ruriko Temple. Made from Japanese cypress, the pagoda is ...

Aug 30, 2000

Travel in the company of women

“The challenge is to myself and not to the mountain.” — “Clouds from Both Sides,” by Julie Tullis Alexandra David-Neel, the author of several books on Tibetan mysticism and a traveler in Buddhist domains such as Bhutan, Korea and Japan, immersed herself in esoteric ...

Aug 30, 2000

'A lippy and lewd bunch of women'

Ten or 15 years ago, it seemed as if women travel writers might have become an extinct species. Manuscripts submitted by women were subjected to a special set of rules. Editors expected their accounts to include record-breaking feats, promotional gimmicks or at least the ...

Aug 30, 2000

In the realm of the accidental tourist

While there are women who work exclusively as travel writers, many women writers, journalists and novelists among them, have chosen at one time or another to temporarily commandeer the travel vehicle to get their ideas or dreams across. The distinction between travel and other ...

Aug 23, 2000

Among the ghosts of the kamikaze

CHIRAN, Kagoshima Pref. — An aerial view of the Satsuma Peninsula, glimpsed from a light, low-flying craft such as a glider, would reveal a pastoral landscape of striking warmth, with green volcanic peaks, white stucco-faced houses and time-worn hot-spring inns tucked away down leafy ...

Jun 21, 2000

Kumamoto: the fortified city

Like the good residents of Granada in southern Andalusia, notorious for their drastic mood swings, natives of Kumamoto have a reputation for being stubborn and sulky. These durable folk (Kumamoto has one of the country’s largest contingents of centenarians) are also reputed to be ...

May 3, 2000

Historic city is picture perfect

A tattered red lantern swings back and forth on a rusty hook outside Densuke, a small, family-run pub-restaurant on Shiokaze Street. The name of the street means salt breeze, and inside Densuke a gregarious, decidedly “salty” bunch of customers sit on sagging tatami mats ...

May 13, 1999

Myanmar's Chinese connection

To the millions of Myanmar Buddhists who still visit it, Mandalay symbolizes, nominally at least, the Rome of this “Golden Land.” It is a royal “City of Gems.” The city was originally founded by King Thibaw to fulfill an ancient prophecy: Ananda, a disciple ...