Saru: Fresh ingredients take center stage at bistro

| Mar 18, 2014

Saru: Fresh ingredients take center stage at bistro

The little enclave underneath the expressway flyover at the intersection of Shirokane and Ebisu has always attracted an interesting and idiosyncratic selection of restaurants. Saru fits in there perfectly. The concept is as straightforward as the rustic wooden furniture. Saru calls itself a “fresh ...

Ajisen: Seasonal seafood and more in Tsukishima

| Mar 18, 2014

Ajisen: Seasonal seafood and more in Tsukishima

There are many reasons for heading across the Sumida River to Tsukishima. Most of them involve monja, those griddle-splattered, dogs-dinner “pancakes” that are Tokyo’s unconvincing answer to the okonomiyaki of western Japan. The one blessed anomaly is Ajisen. It’s not the sole izakaya (dining ...

Fuku: Your new local yakitori stop

| Mar 4, 2014

Fuku: Your new local yakitori stop

Yakitori is neighborhood food, not destination dining. When you feel like nibbling on skewers of grilled chicken, you don’t go across town; you head for your local. If you’re lucky, it will be good. But it’s unlikely to be as good as Fuku in ...

Bistro Aligot: French pie and mash at its best

| Feb 18, 2014

Bistro Aligot: French pie and mash at its best

Aligot: a traditional dish from central-south France, made from mashed potatoes blended with melted cheese, butter, cream and garlic. Aligot: one of Tokyo’s tastiest, most unusual and atmospheric little bistros. Set among the carousing backstreets of Kanda-Jimbocho, Aligot breaks the mold in more ways ...