Do the Dogashima

Jul 23, 2004

Do the Dogashima

Less than an hour by shinkansen from Tokyo, touristy Atami is no one’s idea of a quiet little getaway. From there down to the tip, Shimoda — of Black Ship Festival fame — this eastern side of the Izu Peninsula is the busy, developed ...

The heartbeat of Aomori

Jun 25, 2004

The heartbeat of Aomori

Remoteness is not without its attractions, especially in crowded Japan. And on the main island of Honshu, you would be hard pressed to find a place of human habitation further from the baying crowds than Aomori Prefecture. Curled like a pincer around Honshu’s northern ...

Ancient port of quiet delights

May 28, 2004

Ancient port of quiet delights

By the time footsore travelers on the old Tokaido Highway made it to Otsu, the town must have been no unwelcome sight. Many of them would just have trudged some 500 km from Edo (present-day Tokyo), and Otsu was the last of the 53 ...

Overlooked -- and undervalued

Apr 23, 2004

Overlooked -- and undervalued

If there is one major spot in Japan that visitors somehow tend not to make a beeline for, it is Nagoya. The Japan National Tourist Organization confidently declares in its leaflet on Nagoya that the country’s fourth-biggest city “abounds in places of scenic and ...

Town of grisly times past

Mar 26, 2004

Town of grisly times past

As the unfortunate home to one-tenth of the world’s active volcanoes, Japan lacks no variety in these ill-tempered peaks. Some volcanoes, like Mount Fuji, are majestic affairs and have inspired poets and artists for centuries. And then there are others, like thuggish Mount Unzen, ...

Savor the spirit of ancient Japan

Feb 27, 2004

Savor the spirit of ancient Japan

In a far-off age — long before they were savoring the busy touristic delight of gadding around a dozen European cities in as many days — the Japanese were a fairly untraveled lot. During the Edo Period (1603-1867), the ruling shoguns believed that home ...

Lost Nambu citadel of the North

Jan 16, 2004

Lost Nambu citadel of the North

With Morioka, you know where you stand from the outset. As the title to the official English guide declares, Morioka is “the castle town of northern Japan.” Indeed it is a castle town in all senses of the term — except, nitpickers may note ...

'Land of Fire' with history burning in its mokkosu heart

Dec 12, 2003

'Land of Fire' with history burning in its mokkosu heart

Few things puff up local pride like a local hero. Sendai dotes on its “One-Eyed Dragon,” warrior Date Masamune. Kagoshima loves its plump 19th-century rebel Saigo Takamori. And Kumamoto adores its old daimyo lord Kato Kiyomasa. Like the other two, Kato was very much ...

| Oct 24, 2003

Where time flows slowly

Some places really do have the image thing sorted out. Mention of the name Kurashiki generally conjures up a warm picture of traditional Japan, a town where life trundles along at a gentler pace than elsewhere. What tends not to be conjured up is ...

The little town with a big name

Sep 5, 2003

The little town with a big name

You’ve hauled your bags off the conveyor belt onto the cart, you’ve skulked through Customs and you’re staring blankly at an electronic board, trying to fathom which Limousine Bus is going where. You’ve heard that there is another Narita apart from this one dedicated ...

| Aug 3, 2003

Where the crowds head to cool off

With the rainy season coming to a close, Japan starts to slide into its dog days. As thermometer and hygrometer levels nudge to swelteringly high levels, many Tokyoites feel the burning need to escape the busy, cramped shopping streets of the city and find ...