Jul 9, 2006

Looking at Westerners' accounts of the salaryman blues

THE BLUE-EYED SALARYMAN by Niall Murtagh. Profile Books, 2006, 228 pp., £7.99 (paper). The phenomenon didn’t start with Lafcadio Hearn, but in his day he became best known for it — the foreigner who comes to Japan and writes a book about his experiences. ...

The garden of earthly delight

Jun 23, 2006

The garden of earthly delight

An air of seclusion still hangs over Shikoku. This is despite the building of Japan’s greatest civil-engineering white elephants — three grandiose and grandiosely debt-ridden bridge systems that span the Inland Sea and connect the island with Honshu. The smallest of this country’s four ...

The capital delights of Nara

May 26, 2006

The capital delights of Nara

To visit Kyoto is often to experience what Oscar Wilde thought of Wagner’s music — beautiful moments, but bad quarters of an hour. The time spent soaking up the splendors of its temples and gardens seems slight at the side of those long bus ...

Here be the land of the gods

Apr 28, 2006

Here be the land of the gods

You get them in research institutes, tucked away in small caves, perched atop spanking-new urban developments. Clamber up Mount Fuji and one is waiting there at the summit. Aside from desperately keen Shintoi aficionados, few people would complain that Japan suffers any dearth of ...

| Apr 16, 2006

Ring trilogy spirals past science fiction

RING, SPIRAL, LOOP, by Koji Suzuki. Vertical Publishing, 2003-2005, each $24.95 (cloth). One cinematic treat that 1998 turned out was “Ringu,” which was the rarity of a well-worked, intelligent horror flick that won broad appeal among movie fans who ordinarily look askance at efforts ...

Here's one castle to crow about

Mar 31, 2006

Here's one castle to crow about

They may be unloved and unwanted, but even their detractors would have to admit that Japan’s crows are tough, resilient critters. It is, then, entirely appropriate that the oldest castle in Japan should be named after these intimidating birds. The Japanese of yore had ...

You can't get too much snow up here

Feb 24, 2006

You can't get too much snow up here

Glaciers are in retreat, global weather patterns are going haywire and the Earth’s climate is the warmest it’s been in a millennium. Nonetheless, every winter, as regular as clockwork, winds from Siberia howl across the Sea of Japan, siphon up moisture, and dump it ...

A fortress to be reckoned with

Jan 27, 2006

A fortress to be reckoned with

From the soaring beeches in the forests of northern Honshu’s Shirakami-Sanchi to the funereal Buddhist gloom of Koyasan in Wakayama Prefecture, those who let UNESCO be their guide will find no dearth of variety among Japan’s World Heritage Sites. Of the places in this ...

A slow dive into Ishigakijima

Dec 23, 2005

A slow dive into Ishigakijima

You quit the airport and drive along roads flanked with palm trees, past fields of tall sugar cane and stone-walled gardens bristling with red hibiscus flowers, and it’s clear that you’ve arrived in a very different part of Japan. Ishigakijima Island might be the ...

Izu's Shimoda basks calmly in past glories

Nov 25, 2005

Izu's Shimoda basks calmly in past glories

Jutting south from Mount Fuji into the Pacific, the Izu Peninsula has something of a holiday air about it. The warm Kuroshio current flowing northward lends the peninsula a mild climate, and its position close to the suture lines of shifting tectonic plates means ...

Journey to the end of the world

Oct 28, 2005

Journey to the end of the world

The name in Ainu means “the end of the Earth.” And the bleakness and ruggedness of this lonely peninsula jutting out into the Sea of Okhotsk are such that little imagination is required as to how the Ainu — the indigenous people of Hokkaido ...

The taste of Tosa in Tokyo

Sep 30, 2005

The taste of Tosa in Tokyo

Long before the ballyhooed construction in the 1980s and ’90s of the three stupendous bridge systems linking Honshu with Shikoku, the smallest of Japan’s main islands was by far the least visited. But despite the completion of those civil-engineering white elephants, Shikoku has pretty ...