Aug 23, 2009

On a high road of old

In stark contrast to many of today’s passport-toting Japanese, their compatriots of old weren’t a well-traveled bunch. During the Edo Period (1603-1867), the feudal government was keen to keep its populace in check, and travel by ordinary citizens was tightly regulated. To this end, ...

Jul 19, 2009

History in a stunning setting

It may be hard to imagine of a Saturday night in the gaijin gulches of Tokyo’s seething Roppongi entertainment district, but back in the 16th century, foreigners — especially of a Western ilk — were a complete novelty in Japan. In the years after ...

Jun 14, 2009

Oranges and felons

The 19th-century Scottish novelist and poet Robert Louis Stevenson got it spot on about traveling when he noted that to do so hopefully was a better thing than arriving. Should you venture forth to Hagi, whatever you may feel about the actual Yamaguchi Prefecture ...

The wax and wane of Uchiko

Apr 20, 2007

The wax and wane of Uchiko

To the enormous surprise of absolutely no one except the most irrepressible Pollyannas in or closely connected with the construction industry, the 19 years since the opening of the first of the gargantuan civil-engineering white elephants that go by the name of the Honshu-Shikoku ...

Roofs raised in prayer

Feb 23, 2007

Roofs raised in prayer

Most people are only too aware of the devastating effects of global warming — the breaking up of polar ice shelves, weather patterns going haywire, glaciers in retreat, that documentary starring Al Gore. But the thermal consequences of all the carbon that humans assiduously ...

Jewel of the north country

Jan 26, 2007

Jewel of the north country

At its northern tip, Japan’s main island of Honshu sprouts what looks like a massive pair of pincers that reach up into the Tsugaru Strait toward Hokkaido. The point at the southern end of Hokkaido that the twin peninsulas seem to be homing in ...

Mountain of dread

Dec 22, 2006

Mountain of dread

The stench of sulfur hits you long before you get off the bus. And when you do step off, it hits you all the stronger. Before you stretch the sickly, yellow-green waters of a caldera lake, whose acidity has expunged all fish life except ...

Netted by the charms of fishy Kochi

Nov 24, 2006

Netted by the charms of fishy Kochi

Arched around the underbelly of Shikoku and following the great indentation of Tosa Bay carved into that island by the Pacific, Kochi Prefecture is one of those places over which a sense of isolation has long seemed to hang. At one time, the impenetrable ...

Going by the book in Shikoku

Oct 27, 2006

Going by the book in Shikoku

A classic, once noted Mark Twain wryly, is what everyone wants to have read but nobody wants to read. Thus, Japan has such grand works as the hefty 11th-century “Tale of Genji,” which can claim universal respect, but relatively few readers. One classic, however, ...

On a pathway to the divine

Sep 22, 2006

On a pathway to the divine

Since it acquired the status of a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2004, more people have naturally felt inclined to see the temples and monasteries of Koyasan in Wakayama Prefecture for themselves. But more than a few visitors to the complex find that its ...

Remembering an ancient people

Aug 25, 2006

Remembering an ancient people

When Japan’s Meiji Era (1868-1912) government concluded that the country had a manifest destiny to commence full-scale colonization of the hitherto barely developed northern island of Hokkaido, it set about the task assiduously. Much as with the American frontier, people from other parts of ...

Window on the West

Jul 28, 2006

Window on the West

It’s hard not to feel well disposed toward a place like Nagasaki even before you set foot in it. Nagasaki was, after all, the port in western Kyushu that had to bear the torturous brunt of the anti-Christian persecutions assiduously pursued by the Tokugawa ...