Splendor falls on castle walls

Feb 29, 2008

Splendor falls on castle walls

Snowcapped Fuji drops behind the humps of the Hakone range in central Honshu as a southwest-bound train approaches Odawara Station. With mountains on the west and the ocean on the south and east, Odawara was a natural fortress. The first to exploit this topography ...

Dec 25, 2005

The stuff of legend

She was named after the capital of Japan’s first court. She was said by her crew to be more beautiful than a woman. She was the largest battleship in the world. She was the Yamato. Her keel was laid in 1937 at the Kure ...

Aug 28, 2005

Surrender seen close up

Col. Hervey Bennett Whipple was made logistics officer for U.S. Forces in the Southwest Pacific, operating from bases in Australia, in February 1942. In the following month he came to work for Gen. Douglas MacArthur, who had arrived in Australia after a daring escape ...

Glimpsing the essence of Hearn's Kamakura

Sep 26, 2004

Glimpsing the essence of Hearn's Kamakura

Apropos Hearn’s “Glimpses of Unfamiliar Japan,” Basil Hall Chamberlain, the Meiji Era Japanologist, wrote: “Never perhaps was scientific accuracy of detail married to such tender and exquisite brilliancy of style.” High praise indeed, since accuracy and style are normally seen as incompatible; science embracing ...

Abandoned misfit who found peace in prose and his new land

Sep 26, 2004

Abandoned misfit who found peace in prose and his new land

In the West, Lafcadio Hearn is largely unknown outside of small circles of Japanophiles and aficionados of Gaelic writers. Ironically, though Hearn wrote in English, he is best known among the Japanese — a people not renowned for regularly reading that language. Most foreign ...

Aug 15, 2004

Barbed organ of delights

“Whereas women were created solely for amusement of men it ill becomes them to emancipate themselves,” begins an article in an 1873 edition of Japan Punch. “As our slaves they are the most delightful of animals, but when they attempt to assume airs of ...

Barbed organ of delights

Aug 15, 2004

Barbed organ of delights

“Whereas women were created solely for amusement of men it ill becomes them to emancipate themselves,” begins an article in an 1873 edition of Japan Punch. “As our slaves they are the most delightful of animals, but when they attempt to assume airs of ...

Hit the streets and party!

Apr 9, 2004

Hit the streets and party!

The International Street Performers Festival was hatched in Papa John. In 1984, Ikuo Mitsuhashi — a mime artist just back in Yokohama from a decade-long French sojourn — dropped by the venerable jazz shot bar and listened to the proprietor describe the Association for ...

Savor a city's soul

Apr 9, 2004

Savor a city's soul

A rusted observation platform on the eastern edge of Nogeyama Hill commands views across central Yokohama — from the Western houses on the Bluff to the Landmark Tower in the Minato Mirai district. At the hill’s foot, behind the up-slope march of buildings, lies ...

New subway signals start of a new era

Feb 13, 2004

New subway signals start of a new era

At 4:57 on the morning of Feb. 1, a navy-blue and yellow train pulled out of Motomachi-Chukagai Station bound for Yokohama Station, connecting with through services from there to Shibuya via the Tokyu Toyoko Line. With that, services on the Minatomirai 21 Line, Japan’s ...

Horror on the high seas

Feb 8, 2004

Horror on the high seas

Russia held out one hope for turning the tide of the war against Japan — that a mighty armada, under Adm. Zinovii Rozhestvensky, would relieve the siege of Port Arthur and wrest command of Far Eastern waters from Adm. Heihachiro Togo’s fleet. The Second ...