NEW YORK — Like many other cities around the world, New York has had a punishing summer. On one of the first nights that the weather gave us a respite, I went to a new place for dinner, a Turkish restaurant in Greenwich Village that a friend had enthusiastically recommended to me. I had intended to go for several weeks, but the weather wouldn't let me make a decision about it.

An Adana kebab plate looked particularly enticing, among other things, because my maternal grandmother had been born in that city. The dish was as delightful as I hoped it would be, a real treat. I mentioned my connection to Adana to the restaurant's owner.

"Oh, Adana," he said wistfully, "what wonderful food they have there!"