Authentic British food is hard to come by in Japan, and the food at the theme-pub chains isn't often great. However, there are a handful of expat-run places that get it right — and should hit the spot for homesick Brits.

Having heard encouraging things about Warrior Celt (3F 6-9-22 Ueno, Taito-ku, Tokyo; (03) 3836-8588; www.warriorcelt.jp), I headed out there with a British friend. We'd hardly made a dent in our bottles of Bishop's Finger when she announced that she was "really moved" by the cheese platter: a very, very tangy, crumbly vintage farmhouse cheddar, a rich, creamy blue, and something called Oxford Isis that had a profound, uh, aroma. Also on the menu: homemade sausages (seasoned deliciously with sage and thyme), scotch eggs and, occasionally, haggis.

The Meguro Tavern (2F Sunwood Meguro Bldg., 1-3-28 Shimo-meguro, Meguro-ku, Tokyo; (03) 3779-0280; www.themegurotavern.com), another homey, British-run pub, has a variety of U.K. classics on the menu — such as shepherd's pie and bangers and mash — but is best known for its Sunday carvery. The spread of roast beef, lamb and pork, accompanied by Yorkshire puddings and veg, is "all you can eat as long as you're drinking."